The Problem with Esalen, Part I

For good or ill, Northern California has a reputation (at least outside of California) as being a haven for New Age (and otherwise somewhat offbeat) thinking and activities.  I don’t think that label is accurate.  But, it seems reasonable to ask, if the label isn’t accurate, how did the region end up getting tagged with it anyway?

Look no further than the Esalen Institute (and Hot Springs) in Big Sur.  I’ll withhold judgment on whether it is the top New Age-ish destination on the coast, but Esalen is perhaps the most iconic New Age-ish destination on the California coast.  Their website: http://www.esalen.org/

Esalen is a “retreat and workshop center.”  And as their website admonishes, “Esalen Institute is accessible by reservation only. Unfortunately, it is never possible to just stop by and take a look around.”

That is too bad, because Esalen is an amazing location – as you would expect at a Big Sur landmark – and a historical landmark.  Founded in 1962,  Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg visited and apparently “taught” there (and perhaps drank heavily; see, for example, Kerouac’s novel Big Sur, which doesn’t mention Esalen specifically but you can get a sense of what those days may have been like).  http://www.esalen.org/info/faq/faq1.html#locate  I'm a fan of Kerouac’s work, and so this is a big deal to me.

These days, workshops are interesting and varied (but in my view nowhere near as interesting as it would’ve been to attend while Kerouac was there). 

Food is communal, served in a large dining hall, and the sort of generally healthy stuff that you would expect to be served at a place like this.  As I understand it, the cafeteria is staffed by folks who are essentially in residence for at least several weeks, and are basically getting a work-study sort of discount on workshops at the Institute.   

In the next post:  Answering the question posed in the title of this post.  Nothing like a little suspense…

--COTC

Best Breakfast in Monterey Area

Monterey is full of restaurants.  Sorting through the tourist traps and mega-expensive hotel spots to find a great breakfast (or other meal) can be a chore.  But here's a start -- for the best breakfast in the Monterey area, go to First Awakenings in Pacific Grove.


First Awakenings has a more local feel than many of the restaurants that you'll find near the waterfront.  It is at the Tin Cannery -- a warehouse-like building that houses lots of outlet stores (125 Oceanview Blvd.).   You can get parking validation for the Cannery lot just up the street.


The restaurant itself includes an outside dining area with large tables covered by deck umbrellas, which surround a fire pit.  The fire pit is a big hit with little ones.


The food is outstanding -- particularly the range of egg-related dishes.  Portions are large.  Coffee is delivered in a coffee pot that sits at your table.  


I'm partial to a fritatta-like dish called the "Swiss Miss."  It is heavy on the swiss cheese, of course.  My only problem with it is the name...  


http://www.firstawakenings.net/ 


Enjoy!


--COTC

Monterey Bay Aquarium

Monterey is one of our favorite places to visit along the California Coast.  And the Monterey Bay Aquarium is one of our favorite places in Monterey.

The kelp garden exhibit is among the most extraordinary exhibits (aquarium or museum) in the world - in my view, it is right up there with the Mona Lisa at the Louvre, the T-Rex fossil at the NY Museum of Natural History (though perhaps not quite up there with the main hall at the Smithsonian Air & Space Museum in Washington, DC).

All of this is very personal opinion, of course, though I'll also point out that (as appropriate for a "couples" site like this one) the kelp garden is objectively a bit more romantic than the T-Rex.

The aquarium is packed with people on the typical weekend.  If you can swing it, I strongly suggest a visit during the week when it is much less crowded.  Tickets are available at many local hotels, which can be a lot better than standing on the Disneyland-style long line at the aquarium itself.

If you live in the Bay Area (or anywhere in reasonably close proximity), then consider getting a membership.  The prices aren't crazy (they can pay for themselves in three visits depending on the membership level and the size of your group).  A large portion of the membership fee is tax deductible.

Most folks from the greater San Francisco Bay Area have been to the aquarium at least once.  And it is on the list of things to do for many visitors to California.

Bottom line -- if you haven't been there yet, then this really should go on your bucket list.  If you have been there, then consider going back.

For more information:  http://www.montereybayaquarium.com
On Facebook:  http://www.facebook.com/montereybayaquarium

We'll be reviewing many Monterey hotels, restaurants, and couples/kids spots in future posts.

--COTC

Beyond the Holidays -- The Pros and Cons of Staying at the Fairmont San Francisco

The Fairmont San Francisco is a great hotel, whether or not you go there during the holidays.  But that isn't to say it is perfect.  


1 - The Fairmont sometimes has good rates.  It is sometimes a bit less expensive than other classic San Francisco hotels, like the Ritz, St. Francis, and Mark Hopkins (right across the street from the Fairmont).  


2 - The Fairmont likes to distinguish between the old part of the hotel and "The Tower."  Rooms in "The Tower" are more expensive than in the older part of the hotel.  The rooms in both parts of the hotel are very similar.  Yes, "The Tower" is a bit newer.  But the rooms just don't look too different.  It isn't like they've upgraded the "Tower" rooms to make them like rooms at a modernistic hotel like the W in San Diego.


3 - I don't doubt that some rooms in "The Tower" have better views than rooms in the older part of the hotel.  BUT THAT FREQUENTLY ISN'T TRUE!  Here's what to watch for:
(a)  A room in "The Tower" that faces to the north probably has a better view.


(b)  A room in "The Tower" that faces south will have substantially the same view as that found in pretty much all of the eastern-facing rooms in the older part of the hotel.  


(c)  A room in "The Tower" that faces south and is below the fifth floor (more or less) will have what I think is a WORSE view than in the eastern-facing rooms in the older part of the hotel.


4 - The restaurant has a good buffet set-up.  But it is really expensive.  For example:
(a) The "continental" buffet basically lets you get toast, bagels and cream cheese, cereal and milk, and muffins, for somewhere around $18.  If you're going to do that, just go down to a Starbucks and buy yourself coffee and a muffin or bagel (or five).  


(b) The "full" buffet includes warm stuff like waffles, sausages/bacon, etc.  When we visited, they also had eggs benedict.  It does cost even more than the "continental" buffet.  But if you're going to eat in a hotel restaurant and over-pay, then best to just spring for the "full" buffet.  After all, you just will not find all-you-can-eat eggs benedict most anywhere else.  That's just not a typical item on anyone's buffet.  

5 - The Fairmont staff is pretty friendly, and based on our recent visit they have good service.  Knowledgeable front desk staff (though they'll try to sell you up to a "Tower" room).  Nice bell-folks.  Valet is fine, and faster than I would've expected given the volume of traffic going in and out of the place.


6 - The Fairmont is a really busy place.  Lots of people in and out of the lobby.  Only some are staying at the hotel -- they host lots of dances, parties, etc.  And, especially during the holiday season, lots of folks come in just to see the gingerbread house and tree.  This doesn't bother us.  In fact, we think that's part of what makes this a great hotel to visit.  But if you don't like lots of people and would prefer that your hotel have more of an attitude about scaring folks so they won't come into the lobby if they don't have a reservation, then stay at the Ritz.  


That's not to slam the Ritz too much -- it is a great hotel in its way.  And its restaurant -- The Dining Room -- is among the best (if not THE best) in San Francisco.  But you gotta admit they have a bit of an attitude.  More on the Ritz in a later post.


Enjoy!

COTC

Holiday Season in San Francisco - The Fairmont (Part I)

Last month (December 2010), we decided to check out the Fairmont San Francisco.  Like most folks who live in the Bay Area, I know the Fairmont (mostly via formal school dances like the high school prom or weddings).  But we had never actually stayed there before.  And we wanted to visit in December because the Fairmont-SF is fairly famous for its holiday decorations and ambiance.

We weren't disappointed.  Some highlights of the holiday experience:
1 - The lobby is (always) impressive.  Gilded ceilings.  Impressive columns.  That sort of thing.

2 - During the holiday season, the Fairmont places an enormous x-mas tree in the middle of the lobby, lit with white lights.

3 - The entrance from the lobby to the restaurant is transformed into a 2-story gingerbread house.  Complete with a statue of Santa upstairs, and an O-size model train running in circles downstairs (behind a window).  The model train is a particularly enormous hit with a 2 1/2-year-old.  The only downside - the hotel doesn't always leave the train running, and it may take some persuading to get them to find someone to turn the darn thing on.  Once on, however, it can provided a LOT of entertainment.  So much so that it may be tough to pull your child away from the train in order to sit down and eat a bit of breakfast.  Maybe that's why they sometimes keep it turned off in the morning...

4 - Next to the duplex gingerbread house was a smaller, crafted gingerbread house.  Next to that was a large toy soldier-style nut cracker.

5 - On the other side of the duplex was a set-up of statuettes of x-mas carolers, out caroling.    

The 2 1/2-year old response to all of this?  WOW.

Here's the Fairmont's website:
http://www.fairmont.com/sanfrancisco


In our next post:  Beyond the Holidays -- The Pros and Cons of Staying at the Fairmont San Francisco

COTC

Welcome!

Welcome to Couples - and Kids! - On The Coast.  We originally conceived this idea as CouplesontheCoast.com - a way to review spots (especially hotels and restaurants) along the coast of California (and sometimes up in Oregon and Washington).

As you can tell from the blog title, our perspective has changed.  We are now parents of an amazing 2-year old boy.   This should also explain why we haven't worked on our site in a couple of years...

Our plan is still to review spots - especially hotels and restaurants - along the coast of California (and in the Bay Area, too).  But we'll be paying close attention to kid-friendliness.  Stay tuned for future posts!

COTC