Train of Lights - Niles Canyon Railway

Here's a post that's intended more for families with kids, rather than just couples.  The Niles Canyon Railway is one of the great hidden gems of the Bay Area.  It describes itself as "a railroad museum where the exhibits come to life," which is entirely accurate.  The Railway operates vintage railroad equipment along the Niles Canyon between Fremont and Sunol.

Each November and December, the Railway operates the Train of Lights.  The old trains are strung with holiday lights on the inside and out.  The trains are full of kids and parents; it is a really great, mellow way to spend a late afternoon with the family over the holidays.  

Two trains operate each night -- one leaves from Niles in Fremont at 4:15pm.  The other leaves from Sunol at 7:15pm (heading in the other direction).  The ride usually lasts around 90 minutes.  This seems to be just about the right amount of time for this sort of thing; by the end of the ride, most kids are ready to get going.  Tickets are $25 (early in the season you can get reserved seating, or even rent out an entire train car/caboose for a private party).

We recommend the 4:15 train out of the Niles station.  You get to enjoy the ride in the daylight, looking at the scenery along the steep Niles Canyon.  You can see the river, the steep hillsides, the old train equipment on parallel tracks, and the equipment yard (which is also the turn-around point for the train).  By the time you get back to the station, it is dark; you can see the amazing lights on the outside of the train.      

Here's a view of our train car:    

Facing the other direction:

Here's a shot of the canyon:

Argonaut Hotel, Fisherman's Wharf, San Francisco: The Pictures

Pictures from our stay at the Argonaut Hotel, between Ghiradelli Square and Pier 39 on San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf:

The distinctive Argonaut star pillow in the room:

A seashell display on the 4th floor, by the elevators:

Down in the lobby -- a tic-tac-toe board game, which our 3 1/2-year-old son loved:

Festive lobby pics:

Toasty fire and interesting clock in the comfy lobby:

Another pic of the distinctive star on the bed:

Nevada City

Has anyone seen the Hallmark Channel's The Christmas Card?  It is such a sweet movie for those romantics out there! Yes, some would say it is a "chic movie."  The movie is airing on December 8th, at 10:00PM and December 9th at 4:00PM.  The best thing to do is DVR the movie and then watch it at your leisure!  The Christmas Card was filmed in Nevada City, a gorgeous gold rush town with fun festivals, gorgeous bed and breakfasts, and yummy restaurants.

Nevada City holds a Victorian Christmas festival each year (www.nevadacountygold.com/events/winter/victorian.html.)  The dates for the festival are Wednesdays on Dec. 7,14,21, from 5 to 9PM.  On December 11 and 18th the festival is from 1:30-6PM.  The festival has holiday activities, carriage rides, savory yuletide sweets, and even Father Christmas!

There is also a bed and breakfast holiday tour on December 15th from 4:30PM to 7:00PM.  In grass valley the B & B's on the tour are the following:

Elam Biggs  B & B

220 Colfax Avenue

Grass Valley, CA  95945-6844

(530) 477-0906

The Swan Levine House

328 South Church Street

Grass Valley, CA  95945-6709

530-272-1873

and in Nevada City, the B& B on tour is the following:

Deer Creek Inn

116 Nevada Street

Nevada City, CA  95959

530-264-7038

Where stay in Nevada City?  

Deer Creek Inn

116 Nevada Street

Nevada City,CA  

95959

Piety Hill Cottages Motel and B& B

523 Sacramento Street

Nevada City,CA

There are many wonderful places to stay in Nevada City, as well as the surrounding gold country towns such as Sutter Creek and Grass Valley.

Maritime Museum

The Maritime Museum on Fisherman's Wharf is literally in the same building as the Argonaut Hotel.  It is a great museum; not too big and so you can see everything pretty quickly.  Awesome piece of history.

Every Saturday and Sunday at 10:30AM, the museum offers a historic waterfront walking tour, led by a national park ranger (wide-brimmed hat and all)!  The tour is free.  The ranger meets to start the tour in the lobby of the Argonaut.

Argonaut Hotel, Fisherman's Wharf, San Francisco (Part II)

On our first night here at the Argonaut Hotel, we were on the second floor.  The room was small and no view.  It had a nautical theme, with a porthole-like mirror dominating the center of the room.  The bathroom had wooden nautical-themed wood as detailing on the area near the sink; very tastefully done.

Unfortunately, none of us slept well; something in the room triggered an allergic reaction in my husband and son.  The second day, when my son was trying to nap, we heard banging above us.  My son thought it was "Santa on the roof."  Santa or not, it scared him a little!  I called the front desk and told them about the noise.  The hotel was renovating above us on the 4th floor, and said they could move us, we just needed to come down and get a key.  We went to the front desk, my son charmed them and they gave them a sailor hat, rubber ducky, and a ball.  Plus, the costumed attendant really put on a theatrical show for William, it was fun.  We got the new key to a room on the 4th floor, and got help moving our stuff to our new room.  It was a hassle, but they were really kind and helpful!  My recommendation would be to ask for a non-pet friendly room if you have allergies, and also to be away from renovation noise (sounds like it will probably be done by January 2012, but you may want to ask about it; we're looking forward to seeing the updated new rooms).

For breakfast in the morning, we walked up the street to Starbucks, just around the corner on Bay Street.  My son got a hot chocolate with whipped cream and a protein bistro box.  I got a gingerbread soy decaff latte with one pump of syrup ( I love the gingerbread lattes at Starbucks, but they are too sweet with their normal flavor).  Unfortunately, I couldn't find a local (non-Starbucks) coffee shop walking distance to the hotel, as I usually like to give places like that my business.  The Buena Vista, birthplace of the Irish coffee, is just around the corner (but we're not up for Irish coffee with our 3-year-old early in the morning).

The biggest asset to this hotel is clearly the location.  It is right along Fisherman's Wharf, just beside the cable car and only a very short walk from Ghiradelli Square (also just a few blocks away from Pier 39)  It is a wonderful jumping off point to explore San Francisco.

Chanty Singing at Hyde Street Pier

Tonight (October 3), at 8pm -- and every first Saturday of the month -- the Living Museum at Hyde Street Pier (part of the National Park Service) hosts chanty singing.  We've done this before; it is a lot of fun.  It provides a real taste of maritime history, and is fantastic in the atmosphere of Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco.

Wear warm clothes -- it is cold on the ship.  Also, bring your own mug (or a to-go cup) if you can -- for hot cider!

Call 415-561-7171 to reserve a spot.  See www.nps.gov/safr/historyculture/chantey-sing.htm for more details.

Argonaut Hotel, Fisherman's Wharf, San Francisco

We stayed at the Argonaut Hotel at Fisherman's wharf in San Francisco for two nights.  It is morning, we haven't checked out yet, and I'm writing this in the lobby.

The lobby is decorated beautifully with a nautical theme; sails lit by slowly changing-colored lights are on both sides of the room.  The colors and theme triggered memories for me of the book, Where the Wild Things Are, by Maurice Sendak.  A well-proportioned fireplace with a decorated mantel is at the center of the room.  A Christmas tree stands nearby.  It is hard not to feel festive!

I've been wanting to stay here for awhile.  Timing is the key to staying here at a reasonable price.  At this time of year, one night in a king room with no view was $224.00 during the week; the same room on Friday night was $139.00!

I looked on Expedia, hotels.com, etc.  But, I finally got the best rates by just calling the hotel directly and asking for the best rate.  The attendant was really nice and gave me the San Francisco Maritime National Historic Park museum rate.  The museum is next door, and you can see it through windows walking down the hall from the entrance of the hotel to the lobby.  is run by the U.S. park service, and is open daily from 9:30AM to 5:00PM.

We brought my 3 1/2 son with us and we found this to be a very family friendly hotel.  They are also pet friendly!

My son loved the bell desk uniforms; they are dressed in a nautical/sailor theme.  When we arrived, the bell captain dramatically and theatrically greeted our son, and our son was captivated.

Across the street from the hotel is a tourist store.  They have pirate statues out front (climbing the building), and so our son thinks of it as the "pirate" store.   He got a toy boat there, which he loved and played with in the room.  The hotel has free hot chocolate for children each day at 4:00PM and wine-tasting for adults at 6:00PM.  The lounge is really comfortable for hanging out and relaxing (and blogging)!

"Thanksgiving weekend in the Williamette Valley in Oregon"

While planning our Thanksgiving weekend, I came across an article about a giant festival in the Williamette Valley with food, music, games, and of course Pinot Noir.  Since I am becoming a self proclaimed foodie, I had already heard about the amazing Pinot Noir wines in that valley.  I think this would be a wonderful family vacation!  The Williamette Valley is about 45 minutes from Portland, and is an area with grapevines, hazelnut orchards, quaint farmland,  and rolling hills.   There are numerous local inns, affordable restaurants, and children are allowed and welcome at the wineries. 

Where to stay:

Though there are many places to stay, one that caught my eye was the Deer Haven Bed and Breakfast (18685  N.E. Deer Haven Rd., Newberg, deerhavenfarmsbb.org.)  This B & B even has a family suite, if you book early enough.  What I love about this place is that guests are encouraged to pick the ripe vegetables or berries, collect eggs, or hang out with the farm animals- peking ducks, holstein cows, and chickens.

Where to hike:

For those of you who like to get out and appreciate nature, there is the Silver Falls State Park (oregonstateparks.org),  one hiking choice is the eight mile "Trail of Ten Falls."

Where to see Alpacas:

Children may like to visit the Willakenzie lavender Farm to see the Alpacas, which is open November 25-27 and by appointment. In the gift shop they have little soft teddy bears made of alpaca fiber.  I tease my husband sometimes that what I'd really like to do is have an alpaca farm.

Where to taste wines:

There is a three day barbeque at Erath Winery (November 25-27, $15, erath.com.)  This would be a great place to see how ribs pair with pinot.  Also, the winemaker Mark Vlossak at St. Innocent Winery (November 25-27, wine $12, food free, stinnocentwine.com), cooks a batch of cassoulet big enough to serve 600! The Adelsheim Vineyard (November 25-26, $25, adelsheim.com); tastings also include artisanal cheeses and charcuterie. 

Where to picnic at a vineyard:

A great store to pick up lunch fixings and snacks is the Red Hills Market (115 S.W. 7th Street, Dundee, redhillsmarket.com.)  The Vista Hills Vineyard and Winery (6475 Hilltop Lane, Dayton, vistahillsvineyard.com; tastings, $10), has  a large outdoor space and big decks, children can throw rocks in the pond and run around the large grassy area, and then have a picnic. 

Three Cozy Oregon Retreats in the Fall!

Sisters, Oregon

FIVEPINE lodge, an oregon retreat

www.fivepinelodge.com

This lodge is in Sisters, Oregon.  Though the original log building was destroyed in a fire in 1964, this newer "largest log cabin" was built using the same scale as the original building.  Part of the lodge was built on family member Elda Teresa Willits property, and she called the lodge "a bridge between two worlds."  Her wish was that the guests would cross the bridge and leave their old thinking behind.  The three words that guided her life were love, acceptance, and forgiveness. This lodge also has a Shibui spa, an oasis for wellness and relaxation.  

Breitenbush Hot Springs

www.breitenbush.com

PO Box 578

Detroit, Oregon 97342

503-854-3320

A friend of mine who lives in Portland, Oregon told me about these hot springs.  This hot springs retreat is about one hour and 40 minutes from the FIVEPINES lodge in Sisters, Oregon.  This retreat includes three meals a day.  One thing to keep in mind in the fall and winter is that some roads are closed during this time.  

Deer Haven Farms Bed and Breakfast

deerhavenfarmssbb.org

Newberg, Oregon

Guests of all ages at this B & B are encouraged if they want to pick vegetables or berries, collect eggs, or hang out with the farm animals (holstein cows, chickens, peking ducks).  

During Thanksgiving, there is a giant festival in the Williamette Valley with 150 wineries with games, food, music and wine.  There is a three-day barbeque at Erath Winery (November 25-27, $15., erath.com.)  The ribs are supposed to go fabulously with pinot!  There is a wine trolley in Carlton (the-trolley.com) for a hop-on, hop off tour of more than two dozen wineries.  The winemaker, Mark Vlossak, winemaker at St. Innocent Winery (Nov. 25-27, wine $12. food free, stinnocentwine.com), cooks his special cassoulet to feed around 600 people! 

--COTC

Thanksgiving for Procrastinators

For those of you couples who have procrastinated as far as what to do for Thanksgiving, what about visiting Berkeley, CA.  Both expedia and hotel.com have rates at the Hotel Shattuck, a small boutique hotel walking distance from BART, on Shattuck avenue, of around $193.00.  Plus, the hotel is connected to Five restourant, a great farm-to-table place with a delightful Thanksgiving dinner available.  Also, there is an elegant bar.  What a romantic Thanksgiving!  On Friday, you can take bart to Union Square in San Francisco and catch the tree lighting, or do some holiday shopping!

Dining in the San Francisco Bay Area on Thanksgiving

San Francisco Bay area is one of those cities where there are many restaurants open on Thanksgiving.  This year our family is dining at Five, a farm-to-table cuisine restaurant at the Hotel Shattuck in Berkeley.  Though they have 23 tables, the earliest we could get a reservation was 2:00PM (had to leave a credit card).  We are looking forward to trying their Thanksgiving feast!  

I first discovered Five from a Green tour (I'll blog about these outstanding tours later).  The prices for Five are $55.00 for adults and $25.00 for children.  Five is large and spacious, with a gorgeous bar.  I'll report on the food after Thanksgiving. 

Revival:  Revival is also in Berkeley, and although they aren't open on Thanksgiving, they are open Wednesday, Nov. 23rd and Friday, November 25th for their version of a farm to table Thanksgiving feast.   The easiest way to make a reservation is by going to Opentable.com.  

Here are some other restaurants I looked at, some of which looked really enticing!

*Deer Park Villa, Fairfax, CA  (Marin)

  -buffet, child friendly

*Mountain Home Inn, Marin, $38.00 per person.  

  -Amazing views, also hotel

*Left Bank, Larkspur

*Murray Circle, at Cavallo Point Resort, Sausalito, 

  -There are two choices, a downstairs sit down experience and an upstairs (elevator available) buffet.  

  -The upstairs is mostly for bigger parties and families.  

  -Cavallo is an amazingly beautiful resort, wonderful for nature-lovers.  The Bay Discovery Museum, which I'll blog about later, is a short walk away.  

  -The food (which we've experienced, but not on Thanksgiving) is amazing!

*Rickeys, Novato, $32.95 per plate. 

   -Connected to Inn at Marin if you'd like to stay.

*Ensalatas, San Anselmo, $56.00 per person

*Beach Chalet, San Francisco 

  -A San Francisco staple, across road from Ocean Beach.

  -Views of Pacific Ocean

*McCormick and Kuletos, Ghiradelli Square at Fisherman's Wharf

*Lark Creek Steak (child friendly), San Francisco at Westfield Mall (mall closed for holiday, but may be great place for your child to run around afterwards!)

*One Market, San Francisco

*Paragon, San Francisco, $39.00

*Paragon, Berkeley (inside the Claremont Resort, beautiful views of city and bay, great ambiance!)

*Skates, Berkeley Marina, (normally a seafood restaurant, beautiful views of San Francisco Bay!)

*Zut, Berkeley

*Cetrella, Half Moon Bay, (on Main street, so no views), $50.00 adults, $15.00 children

*For more child friendly selection, see www.redtri.com/san-francisco/bay-area-kid-friendly-restaurants-for-thanksgiving

Fourth of July on the USS Hornet

Following up on our post about the Fourth of July on the USS Hornet, we wanted to post a few pictures from our day.  We had a great time.  The ship is fairly crowded.  I vividly recall a lot of kettle corn.

On the flight deck, the Hornet sets up "bouncy houses" for kids (a big hit with our 3-year old).

The fireworks were a bit disappointing.  Everyone moves to the stern of the ship, where you have a view of the -- very very distant -- fireworks out in San Francisco.  Alameda didn't have fireworks, and there were no fireworks within many miles of the vessel.  Fortunately it was a beautiful clear night without fog.  Our three-year-old expressed it best:  "That's the fireworks?  Really?"  Our recommendation:  Come for the food and the patriotic crowd; leave before the fireworks and find a better spot to watch them.

View of a neighboring dry-dock vessel:

View of the bridge from the flight deck:

Sunset:


Bouncy houses:

Kettle Corn on the airplane elevator:

 View of San Francisco:

Crowd gathers by the flag in anticipation of the fireworks:

Fleet Week and the Blue Angels

San Francisco's Fleet Week is this weekend!  On Friday October 7, Saturday, and Sunday, the Blue Angels will be roaring over San Francisco.  If you live in SF, then you already know about this, since you heard and felt them practicing today.

Visit the Fleet Week website for a detailed schedule.  The big Parade of Ships begins at 11am on Saturday.  The Blue Angels are a huge highlight, and you can see them flying from 3-4 each day.  You can also see the Canadian Snowbirds perform from 1:30-2.

You can get tickets to see the air show from down on the Marina Green.  That said, you can see the show from many vantage points around the City.  Based on past experience, the waterfront near Ghiradelli Square is a good spot, as is the top of Larkin (on Russian Hill above Ghiradelli).

The jets buzz the buildings downtown, and if your loved-one works in an office tower downtown then it might be worth heading in to the office over the weekend (perhaps with a bottle of wine and a picnic basket).

Ferry to Angel Island

Taking the ferry to Angel Island from Oakland, California is a great way to spend a day.  Be sure to pack a picnic, and some warm clothes as it gets cool on the Bay.  Check out angelisland.org.  One of the things I like about Angel Island is that when I'm there I feel so far away from the city life!  Very romantic.

You can see ferry schedules at the Blue & Gold Fleet website, which includes their Angel Island schedules.

There are also opportunities for camping on the island, look at the Angel Island website for more information.

An Introduction to Ghiradelli Square

When I was a kid, I resolved that I would try to always live within roughly an hour of Ghiradelli Square.  Anchored by the old Ghiradelli chocolate factory, which became a big-time ice cream place over 20 years ago, the square has evolved a lot over the past decade.

Now, much of Ghiradelli is taken up by the company that operates the Fairmont hotels; Ghiradelli Square is the home of a large Fairmont fractional ownership property.  We don't know too much about that operation.

What we do know more about are some of the other shopping/restaurant experiences still available there (beyond the ice cream place, which is still a major institution and destination for tourists and San Francisco schoolkids).

San Francisco Fisherman's Warf - Restaurants

Tourists visiting San Francisco invariably come down to Fisherman's Warf.  Stretching from Ghiradelli Square down to Pier 39, this is a main tourist thoroughfare.  Many hotels.  Many places selling jackets and sweatshirts to tourists not prepared for the weather.  Amazing views of the Bay and Alcatraz, and of the sublimely beautiful fog-shrouded city.

In terms of restaurants, however, the Warf can be hit or miss.  Really, mostly miss.  Of the places to eat on the Warf, only a few stand out.

*  Gary Danko is, literally, the best restaurant in San Francisco.  Be prepared to make reservations there 2 months in advance.  Despite the reputation, I've been impressed by the friendly and unpretentious five-star (plus) service.

*  Scoma's is a large seafood place down an alley, sitting right on the water.  It is "one of the Warf's oldest institutions."  The food is pretty good, and locals have been known to eat there.

*  The Buena Vista has been at the corner of Beach and Hyde forever.  This is where they invented the Irish Coffee.  The dinner isn't much to write home about (the burger is safe, but just a burger), but the Irish Coffee is worth a try.  They also have very good breakfasts.  Great atmosphere, if you don't mind it a bit loud.  People-watching.  Views of cable cars.  An important cultural experience.

Starbucks

Starbucks coffee shops are everywhere.  But, like McDonalds and other franchise establishments, there are a handful that are in fantastic locations.  One is located near Fisherman's Warf in San Francisco.  Across from the famed Buena Vista, home of the Irish Coffee, and from the warf cable car turn-around, you will find a Starbucks.  Lots of activity.  Tons of frozen tourists, trying to warm up after suffering the frozen temperatures in the fog at the cable car turn-around.  And a handful of locals.  Including us, sitting at a table, drinking a salted carmel hot chocolate, and blogging.

Sausalito Arts Festival

The 59th Annual Sausalito Arts Festival is this Labor Day weekend (September 3, 4, and 5, 2011).  Hours are Saturday and Sunday 10-6 and Monday 10-5.  


Sausalito is an amazing spot, on the northern peninsula across the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco.  The fog usually rolls out around midday.


The festival is large (unusually large for an art festival in northern California).  Hundreds of artists are displaying work there.  Features a wine garden where you can enjoy California wines.  


Nearby, you can enjoy Sam's Cafe in Tiburon.  Sam's has a big deck right on the water (which is like having a private yacht).  Outdoor seating on the deck; indoor seating is much quieter.  Sam's has a great casual brunch (I had the smoked salmon hash; salmon, eggs, green peppers on top); they also have good fish and chips.  Tiburon has narrow streets and is really beautiful; it feels like you're always on vacation there.    


Right next door is the Waters Edge Hotel, in case you don't want to go home!  Haven't stayed there, but it is right next to Sam's and there are many restaurants and other spots within easy walking distance.  The ferry, which goes to San Francisco, is nearby.


If you bring children, be sure to bring a stroller, drinks, and snacks, because the festival is huge; lots of walking and lots of people.  It isn't always easy to find drinks and snacks.  Also, if you or your child are sensitive to noise, bring earplugs.  The festival features several music venues that are close to the art.

4th of July Fireworks aboard the USS Hornet!

USS HORNET

Monday, July 4th, 2011

The USS Hornet is one of the most decorated ships in naval history!

This blog entry is dedicated to my brother and dad, who both served in the US navy!  What a great place to celebrate 4th of July!

Time:  11AM- 10:00PM

Live music from 2:00 to 9:00PM

FIREWORKS at 9:15PM

Children's activities such as carnival games, jump house, and interactive games!

Explore the ship!

Free parking, see www.us_hornet.org/visit/car fro more information.

Price-  $20.00

Or, free for members, see www.uss-hornet.org 

Summer Solstice Today!

Summer solstice is the longest day of the year!  

What:  Family summer solstice in Alameda County, CA

When:  Tuesday, June 21st

Where:  Summer solstice will be celebrated in two spots for families.

* Tilden Nature Area has a summer solstice celebration from 6:30-9:00PM.  The event will be hosted by naturalist, Bethany Facendini.  Activities are the following:  a 1.5 nature hike, a campfire, and crafts for children.  Reservations required, please call tilden park for availability.

*  Crab Cove interpretive center, Alameda, also has a summer solstice event.   The activities at this event are for children 3 to 8 and their siblings.  This event will be hosted by supervising naturalist Sharol Nelson Embry.  The event will feature games, songs, stories, and a hike.  This event does not require a reservation.  The address of the event is 1252 Mckay Ave, off Central Avenue in Alameda.

Summer solstice websites:

For information on defining summer solstice, see:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/summer_solstice

news.discovery.com/space/what-is-the-summer-solstice.html

news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2011/06/100621-summer solstice-2011

Also, for more information on upcoming summer events in the San Francisco Bay Area, take a look at

www.insidebayarea.com 

Best Pizza in California

Best pizza in California?  My vote goes to Zachary's Pizza in Oakland.  Their deep dish stuffed chicken pizza is legendary in the San Francisco Bay Area and beyond.  Always fresh.  Tons of tomatoes.  Lots of gooey cheese.  Fantastic.  Definitely the best Chicago-style pizza on the West Coast.  It is also employee-owned, and they have great service.  Though you should be prepared to wait for a table for a long time if you come anytime after 5pm.

Folks can talk about new artesian pizza-places all they like, but Zachary's takes home the blue ribbon for great pizza out west.

For another take on the best pizzas in Berkeley, check out http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/inberkeley/detail?entry_id=90745&tsp=1

Note - I obviously disagree with their ranking of Zachary's.

Sunset Magazine Weekend

Sunset Magazine is having its open house weekend this weekend, June 4 and 5 from 10-5.  Sunset's offices are in Menlo Park on Middlefield Road.  

For details, see the Sunset Celebration Weekend website.  Sunset opens up its test kitchen, which is great to see.  They have food booths and wine tasting.  Sunset Magazine's food editor, Margo True, discusses her book The One Block Feast.
















Sunset's exhibits feature information about:

• Urban homesteading
• Chicken coops (seriously fun!)
• Making cheese
• BBQ demonstrations
• Sunset test kitchen tours
• Gardening tips and examples

This is a great event, despite the rain the Bay Area has been experiencing this weekend.  I went yesterday, and the rain didn't do anything to stop the fun.

Jumeirah Essex House

Wanted to follow up our post from a few weeks back about our stay in NY with some pictures from the hotel.

Here's a view facing downtown (from the first room when we checked in, which later got too smoky to stay in):

Another angle, again facing downtown:

Here's the view from the room we ended up in for the rest of our stay.  This faces towards the Time Warner Center:

A view facing the southwest corner of Central Park, with the traffic circle by the Time Warner Center lit up.  The building to the right is the Trump International Hotel.

 
A view in daylight, again facing the Time Warner Center.  The Mandarin Oriental is in the towers, and the Trump hotel is off to the right.

And here's a daylight view facing the Park (the trees were still quite bare in early March).

1,000 Places to See Before You Die

Read 1,000 Places to See Before You Die by Patricia Schultz.  I'm also including a link to 1,000 Places to See Before You Die in the United States and Canada.  

One example of the recommended excursions in this book is Nimmo Bay Resort, in British Columbia.  On pg. 752, Schultz describes Nommo Bay Resort, writing, "There are no roads leading to Nimmo Bay, an eighteen-guest wilderness resort that sits on the remote, undeveloped, and largely unsung western coast of Canada.  It is open May through October.

New York, New York - The Jumeirah Essex House

We recently returned from a trip back East, where we spent over a week in Manhattan.  While there, we stayed at the Jumeirah Essex House, which is on Central Park South (59th Street).

Our stay started out a bit rough.  About two hours after we checked in, our room started to reek of cigarette smoke.  Someone in a nearby room must have been lighting up.  While we don't like to complain, the smoke is a problem for us -- my son and I both end up with breathing issues when we're exposed to smoke for longer than a few minutes.

So, we asked to switch rooms.  After a bit of debate about where the smoke might be coming from, and whether the smell was really that bad, they moved us to a new room lower down in the hotel.  The new room didn't have much of a view -- we were at about tree level, facing the leave-less trees of winter in Central Park.  The new problem -- when I tried to pull the shades up to see the view, the shades themselves actually fell apart and broke entirely.  And no, I wasn't pulling that hard.

At this point, I'm happy to say that the hotel really stepped up.  They gave us a fantastic room/suite on the second-to-top floor of the hotel, with a partial view of the Park, a full view of the Time Warner Center (which is one of the great new architectural views in 21st-Century NYC), and a bit of a view beyond that of the Hudson River.  They didn't raise the price on us, and they allowed us to extend our stay when our trip itinerary changed.  Despite the rough start, the Essex House really came through in the end.  We recommend it.

Budget Couples Coastal Lodging

What is there not to love about the Mendocino Coast?  I recently learned about a "sweetheart" deal of $99 for a one-night weeknight stay or $396 for a two-night weekend stay.  Check out Living Social Escapes.  Note - Living Social's deals change periodically.

Valentine's Day Away from the Coast

For Valentine's Day this year, we ended up heading away from the coast.  Motivated by our son's extraordinary eagerness to see snow, we went up to Lake Tahoe.  We stayed at the Resort at Squaw Creek.  ]www.squawcreek.com We ended up in a blizzard.  It was great.

Livingsocial.com sometimes offers pretty good deals for stays up at Tahoe, including Squaw.  We met some families who live just down the hill from the Tahoe area, in Auburn, who were using a livingsocial.com coupon deal.  We met them while they were using a s'more kit from the Sweet Potatoes Deli at the resort (Sandy's Pub also has s'mores kits, and is near one of the fire-pits at the resort).  They were generous enough to share one of their s'mores with our son.

We went iceskating at the rink at the resort.  This was our son's first ever iceskating experience.  The rink is small - the perfect size for a little person like our 3-year old.  They also have equipment for little people, including small skates down to size 6 and a rail-bar to hold onto.

We had lunch at The Auld Dubliner in Squaw Villiage.  We highly recommend the potato skins and also the corned beef sliders.  It's a great place to have a beer and some yummy comfort food!  Especially in the middle of a blizzard.

Our dinner at Plumpjack at the Squaw village was excellent.  The restaurant was a little too dark for our son, who wanted to stay in the bar area.  I would highly recommend the Plumpjack for romantic dinners for two, but not as much for a family dinner.  That said, the waiters did a fantastic job; truly excellent service.

The Problem with Esalen, Part II

So getting back to the title of this two-set post, what is the problem with Esalen?

ANTS.  LOTS of them.  Everywhere.  Especially during the rainy season (October-May).

And you probably thought I was going to say the problem was the nude bathers at the Esalen baths, who really shouldn’t be seen nude.  But no, that’s not the real problem – the real problem is ANTS.

By way of example:

We check into Esalen to take a weekend workshop.  I arrive with an open mind.  It is Esalen, right?

We tour the grounds.  Breathtaking views.  Simply amazing location.  Decent classrooms.  An area for playing musical instruments (especially drums). 

We have lunch.  Decent food.  Not much to write home (or blog) about.  But decent.  And healthy, if not particularly tasty.

Then, exhausted from the drive down the coast, we head to our room with our bags.

Ants.  Lots of them.  At the doorway.

“No big deal,” I think to myself.  “No big deal,” I say out loud to no one in particular (but within earshot of my wife).

I put my bag down and think I saw an ant nearby.  Again, no big deal.

I lie down on the bed.  I turn my head.  I notice an ant or two on my pillow. 

“Ick.  No big deal.”  I say again, brushing off the pillow.

Under the pillow?  Ants.  LOTS of them.   I look down on the blanket – more ants.  I look at the sheets:  covered with ants.

I get out of bed, pretty irritated.  I don’t like ants.  I really don’t like ants in my room.  And I ESPECIALLY dislike ants in my bed.  I don’t like ants in my bed EVEN MORE when I AM PAYING FOR THE ROOM.

I figure, “this must be a one-time sort of thing, right?”  Wrong.  On closer inspection, I find ant traps in the corners of the room.  THEY KNOW ABOUT THIS!  That’s just not okay with me.  You don’t rent out rooms that are infested with ants.  Just because we’re at Esalen for a workshop doesn’t mean everyone is going to be so enlightened that we overlook all the ants in the bed (and now on our arms, torso, legs, face, hair)…   

So we move rooms.  In the new room – lots more ants.

This is not okay with me.  I’m in favor of expanding my horizons.  I like rustic spots and I love backpacking.  And I’m not expecting the place to be like the Ritz or the Fairmont … or even Motel 6.  But I DO expect that the room be somewhat clean and relatively ant-free (at least the pillow, if not the bed).

And that’s the problem with Esalen.

--COTC

The Problem with Esalen, Part I

For good or ill, Northern California has a reputation (at least outside of California) as being a haven for New Age (and otherwise somewhat offbeat) thinking and activities.  I don’t think that label is accurate.  But, it seems reasonable to ask, if the label isn’t accurate, how did the region end up getting tagged with it anyway?

Look no further than the Esalen Institute (and Hot Springs) in Big Sur.  I’ll withhold judgment on whether it is the top New Age-ish destination on the coast, but Esalen is perhaps the most iconic New Age-ish destination on the California coast.  Their website: http://www.esalen.org/

Esalen is a “retreat and workshop center.”  And as their website admonishes, “Esalen Institute is accessible by reservation only. Unfortunately, it is never possible to just stop by and take a look around.”

That is too bad, because Esalen is an amazing location – as you would expect at a Big Sur landmark – and a historical landmark.  Founded in 1962,  Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg visited and apparently “taught” there (and perhaps drank heavily; see, for example, Kerouac’s novel Big Sur, which doesn’t mention Esalen specifically but you can get a sense of what those days may have been like).  http://www.esalen.org/info/faq/faq1.html#locate  I'm a fan of Kerouac’s work, and so this is a big deal to me.

These days, workshops are interesting and varied (but in my view nowhere near as interesting as it would’ve been to attend while Kerouac was there). 

Food is communal, served in a large dining hall, and the sort of generally healthy stuff that you would expect to be served at a place like this.  As I understand it, the cafeteria is staffed by folks who are essentially in residence for at least several weeks, and are basically getting a work-study sort of discount on workshops at the Institute.   

In the next post:  Answering the question posed in the title of this post.  Nothing like a little suspense…

--COTC

Best Breakfast in Monterey Area

Monterey is full of restaurants.  Sorting through the tourist traps and mega-expensive hotel spots to find a great breakfast (or other meal) can be a chore.  But here's a start -- for the best breakfast in the Monterey area, go to First Awakenings in Pacific Grove.


First Awakenings has a more local feel than many of the restaurants that you'll find near the waterfront.  It is at the Tin Cannery -- a warehouse-like building that houses lots of outlet stores (125 Oceanview Blvd.).   You can get parking validation for the Cannery lot just up the street.


The restaurant itself includes an outside dining area with large tables covered by deck umbrellas, which surround a fire pit.  The fire pit is a big hit with little ones.


The food is outstanding -- particularly the range of egg-related dishes.  Portions are large.  Coffee is delivered in a coffee pot that sits at your table.  


I'm partial to a fritatta-like dish called the "Swiss Miss."  It is heavy on the swiss cheese, of course.  My only problem with it is the name...  


http://www.firstawakenings.net/ 


Enjoy!


--COTC

Monterey Bay Aquarium

Monterey is one of our favorite places to visit along the California Coast.  And the Monterey Bay Aquarium is one of our favorite places in Monterey.

The kelp garden exhibit is among the most extraordinary exhibits (aquarium or museum) in the world - in my view, it is right up there with the Mona Lisa at the Louvre, the T-Rex fossil at the NY Museum of Natural History (though perhaps not quite up there with the main hall at the Smithsonian Air & Space Museum in Washington, DC).

All of this is very personal opinion, of course, though I'll also point out that (as appropriate for a "couples" site like this one) the kelp garden is objectively a bit more romantic than the T-Rex.

The aquarium is packed with people on the typical weekend.  If you can swing it, I strongly suggest a visit during the week when it is much less crowded.  Tickets are available at many local hotels, which can be a lot better than standing on the Disneyland-style long line at the aquarium itself.

If you live in the Bay Area (or anywhere in reasonably close proximity), then consider getting a membership.  The prices aren't crazy (they can pay for themselves in three visits depending on the membership level and the size of your group).  A large portion of the membership fee is tax deductible.

Most folks from the greater San Francisco Bay Area have been to the aquarium at least once.  And it is on the list of things to do for many visitors to California.

Bottom line -- if you haven't been there yet, then this really should go on your bucket list.  If you have been there, then consider going back.

For more information:  http://www.montereybayaquarium.com
On Facebook:  http://www.facebook.com/montereybayaquarium

We'll be reviewing many Monterey hotels, restaurants, and couples/kids spots in future posts.

--COTC

Beyond the Holidays -- The Pros and Cons of Staying at the Fairmont San Francisco

The Fairmont San Francisco is a great hotel, whether or not you go there during the holidays.  But that isn't to say it is perfect.  


1 - The Fairmont sometimes has good rates.  It is sometimes a bit less expensive than other classic San Francisco hotels, like the Ritz, St. Francis, and Mark Hopkins (right across the street from the Fairmont).  


2 - The Fairmont likes to distinguish between the old part of the hotel and "The Tower."  Rooms in "The Tower" are more expensive than in the older part of the hotel.  The rooms in both parts of the hotel are very similar.  Yes, "The Tower" is a bit newer.  But the rooms just don't look too different.  It isn't like they've upgraded the "Tower" rooms to make them like rooms at a modernistic hotel like the W in San Diego.


3 - I don't doubt that some rooms in "The Tower" have better views than rooms in the older part of the hotel.  BUT THAT FREQUENTLY ISN'T TRUE!  Here's what to watch for:
(a)  A room in "The Tower" that faces to the north probably has a better view.


(b)  A room in "The Tower" that faces south will have substantially the same view as that found in pretty much all of the eastern-facing rooms in the older part of the hotel.  


(c)  A room in "The Tower" that faces south and is below the fifth floor (more or less) will have what I think is a WORSE view than in the eastern-facing rooms in the older part of the hotel.


4 - The restaurant has a good buffet set-up.  But it is really expensive.  For example:
(a) The "continental" buffet basically lets you get toast, bagels and cream cheese, cereal and milk, and muffins, for somewhere around $18.  If you're going to do that, just go down to a Starbucks and buy yourself coffee and a muffin or bagel (or five).  


(b) The "full" buffet includes warm stuff like waffles, sausages/bacon, etc.  When we visited, they also had eggs benedict.  It does cost even more than the "continental" buffet.  But if you're going to eat in a hotel restaurant and over-pay, then best to just spring for the "full" buffet.  After all, you just will not find all-you-can-eat eggs benedict most anywhere else.  That's just not a typical item on anyone's buffet.  

5 - The Fairmont staff is pretty friendly, and based on our recent visit they have good service.  Knowledgeable front desk staff (though they'll try to sell you up to a "Tower" room).  Nice bell-folks.  Valet is fine, and faster than I would've expected given the volume of traffic going in and out of the place.


6 - The Fairmont is a really busy place.  Lots of people in and out of the lobby.  Only some are staying at the hotel -- they host lots of dances, parties, etc.  And, especially during the holiday season, lots of folks come in just to see the gingerbread house and tree.  This doesn't bother us.  In fact, we think that's part of what makes this a great hotel to visit.  But if you don't like lots of people and would prefer that your hotel have more of an attitude about scaring folks so they won't come into the lobby if they don't have a reservation, then stay at the Ritz.  


That's not to slam the Ritz too much -- it is a great hotel in its way.  And its restaurant -- The Dining Room -- is among the best (if not THE best) in San Francisco.  But you gotta admit they have a bit of an attitude.  More on the Ritz in a later post.


Enjoy!

COTC